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1
Technical / Drainage holes on the bottom floor of the rear trunk area.
« Last post by John Nguyen on August 15, 2017, 06:31:52 PM »
Hi all,

Does it has drainage holes on the very bottom floor of the rear trunk area?

Regards,
John C. N.
2
220 / Re: 220 Engine Rebuild
« Last post by Scott Montoney on August 09, 2017, 07:26:02 AM »
The shop manual says the springs for the newer aluminum head can also be used for the older cast iron head, but not the other way around. 

UPDATE:
Earlier in this topic, I commented about the different valve springs and making sure the correct ones are used.  Well, if new ones are ordered, regardless of the original part number, they both link to a new number.  I expected these new springs to match the specs of the updated springs in the specifications hand book.  They do not.  The wire gauge is slightly thinner, but the length of the coil is a little longer.  So, I'm no longer concerned that the wrong spring were installed.  I have to assume that the new specs are compatible in performance. It's the only set of springs available for the car anyway.
3
220 / Re: 220 Oil FIlter Modification
« Last post by Scott Montoney on August 01, 2017, 08:59:45 PM »
I will get one to check it out.  I had not considered retaining the original filter.
That will certainly provide extra filtration.  I was looking at the convenience of not trying to clean out the wire one.
However, after the engine rebuild, it may not get as clogged with debris as it used to.  It was a pain to get it cleaned out properly.
Thanks for the option to consider.
4
220 / Re: 220 Oil FIlter Modification
« Last post by Henry Magno on August 01, 2017, 08:55:37 PM »
The 220 filter is longer than the 170, you would need a spacer. Maybe there is another longer Mann filter the same diameter.
5
220 / Re: 220 Oil FIlter Modification
« Last post by John Ellis on August 01, 2017, 05:44:39 PM »
Another solution is to use Mann #HU68X Filter which fits perfectly inside the original washable filter and provides rigidity.

6
220 / Re: 220 Oil FIlter Modification
« Last post by Scott Montoney on August 01, 2017, 12:07:57 PM »
I suppose another gasket option would be a flat circular gasket with an ID=53.8mm, OD=66.8mm and a thickness of about 5.5mm.
(I don't know if a round O-Ring of these dimensions could be found?)
This would seal the very outer edge of the filter elements and the metal top plate.
The bottom one is about .5mm thinner but possibly the same thickness could be used for both. 
Have to test it out if I can source the materials.
7
220 / Re: 220 Oil FIlter Modification
« Last post by Scott Montoney on July 31, 2017, 10:01:09 PM »
Here is the top casting.
I shaped the cobalt cutter, mounted everything on my drill press (Improvised Vertical Milling Machine), and made the recess for about half the thickness of the O-Ring.  I might go a little bit deeper depending on what may get done at the other end of the filter, but this is fine for now.  The overall length is still within functional specifications.
Not having the exact proper tools, I did have one slight issue where the cutter moved out just a little more than I wanted, but I caught it before I went too deep. The O-Ring is contained in the lid, and will be a fine seal.
8
220 / Re: Re: 220 Oil FIlter Modification
« Last post by Scott Montoney on July 31, 2017, 06:24:04 PM »
Agree.  Already have an idea or two. 
Also, I think I should probably figure out how to move this part into a separate posting.

The bottom of the filter (as it sits on my bench) could have a simple flat rubber gasket that had a hole for the metal post.
However, the top must retain an opening for the oil to flow through.
My thought for that is to use a O-Ring.  Mill a groove for it into the top casting.  It will have no bearing on the original configuration, and it can hold an O-Ring rubber gasket in place.

I'll look into the milling later in the week.
9
220 / Re: Re: 220 Oil FIlter Modification
« Last post by Henry Magno on July 31, 2017, 10:25:34 AM »
I think this would be really good if some rubber sealing rings were worked into the design. The end plate for a 220 S already has an o ring in it if I'm remembering correctly. I should check this out.
10
220 / Re: 220 Oil FIlter Modification
« Last post by Scott Montoney on July 30, 2017, 09:55:10 PM »
Having the engine out has given me some time to look into other items.
Over the years, we have had a few discussions here about upgrading or modifying the original oil filter in our cars.
There have been modifications for spin-on filters, remote filters, and internal filters discussed.
In my case, I did not want to do anything that would alter the original appearance.
I was able to come up with a paper cartridge that bolts in without the need for any permanent modifications to the housing.
There is some fine tuning I may do, but it looks to be a good fit.
What I don't know is if the paper filter will adversely change the oil pressure and delivery system throughout the engine.
So, if anyone has any thoughts on that, let me know.

Here are a few photos of the original wire-wound filter assembled and apart.
The new filter is 9.5 mm shorter due to the fact that the filter is sitting on a different part of the assembly.  The overall length is still the same so that the assembly will correctly seat into the housing.
The filter is MANN FILTER # HU711/51x and was available at one of my local auto parts store.
The filter itself does need one thing changed.  There is a plastic cross-member that needs to be removed so that it will slide over the steel threaded post.

Update: 
I milled a spacer that slips over the center steel rod and is milled to just fit inside the inner hole of the filter.  This keeps the bottom of the filter centered on the base of the assembly.
I also made a support tube to slip over the steel shaft that will prevent the top plate from being over tightened. (however, the filter is quite sturdy and I think the chances are minimal that the filter might be "crushed" if over tightened.

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