170220 FORUM

Hi Thomas,

Not sure if you've fixed your problem or not, but I did have a similar issue with my 170S a few years back.  I eventually traced it back to a leaking valve in the fuel pump, attached to the timing case of the engine.  Although it ran just fine under no load, it went to pieces under load.  It's quite easy to check, remove the fuel line from the carburetor, hold you finger over the line and hand pump the primer leaver on the fuel pump.  Finger pressure should not be able to hold back the fuel if the valves and diaphragm are in good order.  Might be worth a try....

Owen

No leads yet? 
Is this trim piece specific for right/left, or is it mountable for either fender?  It looks like it is symmetrical and would go on either side.
I suppose, if none can be found, you could use the current one as a model to have someone fabricate a duplicate.  Although the cost would be ridiculous.
It looks like a part that you should be able to find somewhere, but may need to be chromed.
Certainly not a show-stopper for continuing the restoration in the meantime.

For what it's worth, here is a story I hate to admit, about a mistake I made once when setting the timing on my car.
I don't know what the specification is for your car, but mine stated in the shop manual, 5 degrees AFTER Top Dead Center.
I set the timing to that and had similar results to yours plus my engine ran very hot.
The problem that I induced was that the timing was to be set to that value STATIC, not running and with a timing light.
When, I set it exactly like the shop manual said, with a test light bulb/volt meter, it ran MUCH better, and cooler.
When I then hooked up the timing light, it turns out the setting, while running, was actually in the 10-15 degree BEFORE TDC range.
So. . .  just be sure your timing value is appropriate for the measurement method you are using.

It would be nice to see it translate into a more active forum as a result of the updates.

Good luck on the migration, I know how much of a pain it can be.