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Technical / Re: Starting problems (MB 170S sedan)
« Last post by twigren on July 17, 2019, 10:35:32 AM »
Thanks for your reply! I have recheckef all that. Have also tried to rotate 180 degrees just for testing.

@Ted. Thanks for reply! I verify TDC by attaching a compression
-meter to cyl #1. When it shows compression, I know both valves are closed and compression stroke is underway.

Technical / Re: Starting problems (MB 170S sedan)
« Last post by Ted on July 17, 2019, 10:21:37 AM »
Are you sure about the TDC of #1 cylinder? The piston would be at the top twice, once for compression and once at the end of the exhaust move. So, it has to be the right top position, from the two.
Technical / Re: Starting problems (MB 170S sedan)
« Last post by Scott Montoney on July 15, 2019, 06:11:36 PM »
I'm not sure what to make of it. . .
From all that you have described, fuel is making it into the cylinder and the spark plugs generate a spark outside the cylinder head, The only conclution I can come up with is that the timing isn't correct.
I would re-check that the distributor isn't 180degrees out of position.  #1 piston at TDC and Distributor rotor is at #1post.

I don't know what the 170 distributor drive looks like compared to my 220, but I recall several years ago when I had not seated the distributor all the way down into the drive and it "slipped" bringing the engine to an immediate halt.

Other than that, I'm out of ideas.
Technical / Starting problems (MB 170S sedan)
« Last post by twigren on July 15, 2019, 08:24:40 AM »
Dear friends,

After some test runs with my newly renovated car I decided to do some additional tuning.
Main reason was a very bad idling and I started to rotate the distributor, adjusted air-screw at carburetor etc.
As I couldn't really solve the main problem I took some additional measures and had both carburetor as well the as distributor off for cleaning and reviewing all details.

When everything assembled again suddenly the engine doesn’t even start.
Starter works fine but the engine doesn’t work. Instead, when starter stops there’s a back-suction through the carburetor and gasoline is spitted out (no air filter mounted.)
No back-fire occurs, but simply a ”cough” with gasoline upwards through the carburetor.

Here is what I have tested and verified:

1. Fuel system (from tank, through filter, through pump into carburetor and the needle-valve closes correctly)
2. Coil (ohm measured and seems to work fine)
3. Spark plugs (tested and verified I get a spark outside the cylinder)
4. Breaker (breaker adjustment set according to manual, 0.4mm)
5. Engine position (upper dead position for cyl #1 is set)
6. Compression test (done on cyl#1 when setting the cylinder position).
7. Battery OK (recharged several times)
8. Carburetor (acceleration pump works fin, gasoline is pumped into the chamber)

Have tried many things but need your help. :-)
Would appreciate any ideas or thoughts on why engine and despite all ingredients (fuel, air and spark) doesn’t start.

Thanks in advance!

MB 170S Sedan, 1950

220 / Re: 1952 220 Sedan W187 build restoration
« Last post by Scott Montoney on July 05, 2019, 02:16:59 PM »
I believe you can reuse the metal seal if it is not damaged.  They are quite expensive if I recall.  I had to replace one of mine.

I thought the two parts of the oil pan were normally separate.  Maybe yours is just stuck together from age.  I would plan on replacing the rubber seal because it is probably too hard and brittle at this age.  I wouldn't trust it to not leak.
220 / Re: 1952 220 Sedan W187 build restoration
« Last post by yan2947 on July 05, 2019, 12:48:25 PM »
Question about the oil pan and the "rear part of the oil pan".  I've received the rope seal for the rear of the crankshaft where
it sits in the holder for the seal on the "rear part of the oil pan".  Do I need to replace the "holder" for the seal which seems to be metal?  The holder for the
rope seal on the oil pan and block appear to be the same part number.  I've received one rope piece of rope seal that seems to be
long enough for top and bottom (oil pan and block).

Also, where the oil pan separates to the "rear part of the oil pan", do I need to replace that seal?  It looks like maybe its rubber and
I would have to knock out the rear part.  Is there a need to replace it if its not broken... C01 289 from Neimoller (180 014 01 80).

thanks all!

220 / Re: 1952 220 Sedan W187 build restoration
« Last post by yan2947 on July 05, 2019, 11:08:34 AM »
It appears that having the drain valve on one side and the drain plug on the other allow for the coolant
level to drain all of the coolant.  Without it the fluid level would hold about 3 inches higher in the block.
If you don't need to drain it then it wouldn't matter.

General Discussion / Rear window surround for 170D
« Last post by Stephen Dietrich on July 03, 2019, 05:38:08 PM »
 Does anyone know if the rear window on the 170Da  OTP had It wood surround for the rear window?  Thank you, Stephen 
220 / Re: 1952 220 Sedan W187 build restoration
« Last post by yan2947 on July 02, 2019, 01:36:03 PM »
I have that one also.  Different type valve but in that side also.
220 / Re: 1952 220 Sedan W187 build restoration
« Last post by Scott Montoney on July 02, 2019, 01:03:11 PM »
On my car, there is a drain valve on the driver side near the oil dip-stick.
I can send photo later, but perhaps it is a result of some of the “220S” improvements that have been done to my engine?
Henry will probably know when he gets a chance to check in.
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