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21
220 / Re: 1952 220 Sedan W187 build restoration
« Last post by yan2947 on July 02, 2019, 05:47:58 AM »
Scott, yes for the passenger side.  Mine had the plug.  How else could you drain the water/coolant without taking of the side cover itself?

The niemoeller catalog shows a plug also.

https://www.niemoeller.de/en/w187/w187/B010/1/ 
22
220 / Re: 1952 220 Sedan W187 build restoration
« Last post by Scott Montoney on July 01, 2019, 10:13:29 PM »
Is that the cover for the right side (passenger side) of the block?
On my car, neither the old or new one had a plug on that side. Only on the left side panel.
I donít have any idea about the best way to paint those covers.
23
220 / Re: 1952 220 Sedan W187 build restoration
« Last post by yan2947 on July 01, 2019, 09:25:59 PM »
Just got one of the two side engine covers.  There is no drain plug on the new one.  Does that need to be welded on?

I was going to powder coat the part black.  Thoughts.


24
Classifieds / Re: Lug wrench for 170 D OTP wanted
« Last post by TYPE300 on July 01, 2019, 09:52:15 AM »
I have a Mercedes folding lug wrench for you.
Contact me : W186300@GMAIL.COM
25
Technical / Re: Manifold Air valve to move in active positions
« Last post by CraigS on July 01, 2019, 04:55:22 AM »
The purpose of it was to close off the exhaust manifold so that warm air was directed into the engine, thereby warming it up faster. Once the bi-metal spring warmed up, the valve opened and exhaust was directed to the rear of the car. Appropriate for cold climates, but not much use in Australia. Not really fuel related. There is no harm in having it working, but you will need the appropriate grease to keep it working.
26
Technical / Re: Manifold Air valve to move in active positions
« Last post by Ted on June 30, 2019, 10:58:17 AM »
What happened to mine: after weeks of soaking, little heat and gentle tapping, it never moved. More soaking, hammering /through a brass piece, not to damage it/ - nothing. The story ended with the torch. A skilled friend heated it red and with just a little tapping it moved. But he carefully heated it, little by little and not just the spot, as the cast may crack.

BTW I read somewhere it was useful /more or less/ for the old, low octane fuels. And the modern fuels don;t need it, so it may stay closed. Is that right?
27
Postwar 170V & 170D / Rear window
« Last post by Stephen Dietrich on June 28, 2019, 05:14:06 PM »
 On the OTP, does it have a wood surround on the rear window? Thanks, Stephen
28
Classifieds / Re: Lug wrench for 170 D OTP wanted
« Last post by Stephen Dietrich on June 28, 2019, 05:12:29 PM »
 I am not entirely sure. I kind of think it was a folding handle but not completely sure.  I think Iíll just use regular 19 mm lug wrench.
29
Technical / Re: Manifold Air valve to move in active positions
« Last post by Scott Montoney on June 27, 2019, 07:37:53 PM »
Well, I suppose the first thing I would try is to soak it in penetrating oil for several days.  Put some heat to it from time to time, maybe lightly tap the ends of the shaft, all trying to get any movement at all.
Once there is even a little movement, then you know that the oil will be able to continue to get deeper.
Keep working it and I expect it should eventually loosen up.

Another option might be to grind away the spot welds that hold the flap to the shaft, and then press the shaft out, but I'd still make every effort to get the shaft loose first.  Once it is all apart and cleaned, when re-assembled, just re-weld the plat to the shaft.

30
Classifieds / Re: 1958 220 SE Cabrio for sale
« Last post by terry54999 on June 27, 2019, 10:29:14 AM »
sold
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