220 shock absorbers

[Scott Montoney]

I'm looking into replacing all four shocks on my 220.
I believe I can get them all from Niemoller. 
MB only has the front.
I looked in the small "Technical Data" book and it looks like the 170S uses the same shocks?
That book also give some specs and dimensions.
Is there a USA based supplier that has proper fit shocks, or is my best bet just to stick with Niemoller? 
I have another question.  I assume most of the rubber bushings and parts should also be replaced while I'm at it.  Do any of the bushings come with the new shocks? I don't want to order duplicate individual parts that are not needed.
Thanks.

[John Ellis]

Scott,

The only company that makes shocks to fit both the 170S and 220 models is Sachs.  They happen to be the current corporation of the original F&S shock absorber company.

   front shocks    Sachs #106792
   rear shocks     Sachs #113001

Don't know if they are available in the USA, but these are probably what Niemoller supplies.

Bilstein, Koni, Monroe, Gabriel and others start with the Pontons and nothing earlier.

[Charles Adamson]

Scott,

I had Midas install four shocks in 1975. They fit, but at the time info was hard to come by.

Charles Adamson

[CraigS]

As I have mentioned before, it may be worth having your existing ones rebuilt. Most companies that I have looked at appear to mention the older lever arm shocks, but it may be worth discussing with one of these companies. This one may be a place to start-

http://www.applehydraulics.com/shocks.htm.

They are rebuildable - I have mine done in Australia, so it certainly is possible. I just don't know of anyone in the US, but I'm sure there is someone. There are a couple of advantages to doing this - you keep the originality of the genuine part, which the replacement may not have, it is generally much cheaper, and you can specify if you want them to have more/less damping ability.

[John Ellis]

Good point about rebuilding.  Here is a place in California that rebuilds classic shock absorbers including the piston type.

Five Points Classic Auto Shocks  http://www.classicautoshocks.com/

I don't have any experience with the firm, but thinking about rebuilding my original telescopic shocks.

[Scott Montoney]

I have ordered a new set of shocks and various rubber components from Niemöller.
Depending on cost, I may then look into the rebuild options when I have time to wait without putting the car out of service for an extended length of time.

[Henry Magno]

I've had problems with Apple Hydraulics workmanship on cylinder sleeving, including leaking sleeves. They also damaged bleeder screw seats when re-drilling the bleeder hole off-center. Their customer service left a lot to be desired. I don't remember the details but I seem to remember that I could never reach the relevant person regarding a refund and/or he didn't return calls.  When I was restoring my 170 V, I think I talked to them about the lever shocks, but they didn't seem to know about German shocks. I wouldn't use them for anything at this point.

It is surprising how long the original shocks last. I wouldn't assume that they are no good just because they are old. Also there is a substantial difference in resistance between collapsing the shock and extending it, intentionally by design, compared with other cars.  So even though you will find very little resistance collapsing, this is normal.

[Scott Montoney]

The shocks arrived from Niemöller.  They are exactly as John stated earlier and made by Sachs.  The rear look to be identical in shape and function.  In fact, as Henry mentioned, they were so identical that I doubt they needed to be replaced.  Exactly as Henry suggested, the effort to collaps the shock is far less than that to extend it.
The front shocks are another matter.  The old ones took almost no effort at all to collaps.  Less than a second for me to push from fully extended to fully collapsed, yet there is still reasonable effort to extend them.  The new shocks have nearly equal resistance in both collapsing and extending.  Is this going to be a problem? They are also designed differently but it installed fine.
I found that my old front shocks probably didn't have correct rubber bushings at the top and they were both loose. 
All four new shocks have now been installed.  I drove over a section of road that I am familiar with that is very bumpy and the ride is much quieter and I believe a little more "controlled".

I am still waiting on the arrival of a new set of springs, but they will not be installed until this winter.

[Henry Magno]

I may be wrong about the specs on the front shocks. They are in the tech data book.

[Scott Montoney]

I recall seeing the specs somewhere and that book would be the first place I'd check.  I believe they have some sort of a special tool to get the exact measurements but just reading the specs should provide a rough guideline as to what to expect.
 
At this time, my copy (and some additional documentation) is in the hands of a repair shop that is doing the restoration on my cousin's 220 sedan.  But no hurry, I can check it later.

[Comrade Stalin]

I do have all 4 shucks but like replace them with the new modern shucks. Have problem with rear ones. Does anybody knows wich mode's would be right and fit on rear ?

Can give up old ones.

[mercrules]

I posted on this subject on another discussion (170) I think.

It's been about 13 years since I put my car together, but I am using Monroe #5753 on the front and #20718 on the rears and have had no issues.  Some day, I would love to cross reference some Bilsteins, since my experience has been so positive with them on other vehicles.

I forget, but you may have to drive the metal spacer out of one end.

I drive a '52 220 sedan.

Happy Trails...