New guy :) 1949 170V

[ereyal]

Hey there all!
My name is Eyal and i'm (besides of being the new guy here) correctly restoring ,together with my dad , our 49' 170V.
It had been party restored 26 years back when my dad bought it and now it time to do it seriously 

well here are some pics from the first stapes of stripping the car and up to now,
correctly the front axle is pretty much done ,and the back axle is about the be closed after i replaced all the bearing and the oil seal (not an easy job) and we are not that far from completing the chaises .

Now while handling the front suspension we figured out that the F&S MONO shocks are pretty much done (don't stand with the manufacturer standards) ,
i succeeded opening the up, and we have some play between the piston and the housing, did anyone had those special shocks restored?





Best regards

Eyal

[Paavo]

Welcome to 170220 forum!
Front suspention looks good.
I must restored shocks too, but my front, driver side shock is broken. (little pieces)
I have to find new restorable shock first. Do you or somebody else have extra shock to sell.

[John Ellis]

Welcome Eyal.  Look forward to seeing more pictures as you progress with the restoration.  Actually the front suspension is better looking than original; like most cars of this era, the detail would never have been to this level .... all parts would have been painted black.  Keep up the good work.

Question, did you paint the leaf springs as an assembly or each spring separately?  I am about ready to do paint mine and questioning what to do considering it may build up to much thickness and then not slide when flexed.

[ereyal]

Welcome Eyal.  Look forward to seeing more pictures as you progress with the restoration.  Actually the front suspension is better looking than original; like most cars of this era, the detail would never have been to this level .... all parts would have been painted black.  Keep up the good work.

Question, did you paint the leaf springs as an assembly or each spring separately?  I am about ready to do paint mine and questioning what to do considering it may build up to much thickness and then not slide when flexed.

Hi John and thanks for the comment ,
well first of all what i'm looking for in this project is more then good look, i painted the shocks only so they wont get any rust. but i must overhaul them.


All the metal parts (chaises ,leaf springs one by one ,back axle ,spiral springs, wheel hubs and more) were sand-blasted and powder-coated , very recommended.


Still looking for info about the shocks you guys

Thanks

[Paavo]

I hope this helps you!

[ereyal]

I hope this helps you!

Hi and thanx for the scan, but,  i already have the complete manual and please note that it recommends replacing the piston in overhauling, nothing much ,ire than that.

Did anyone actually restored those shocks?

Cheers
Eyal

[Henry Magno]

My shop has worked on these shocks, but I've never had a situation where I had to resleeve them, which is perhaps what you need. I will say that when I restored my 1938, I was never able to achieve the test results given in the manual, and that appears to be the case also with the Roadster we are currently restoring. My experience with my own car (7-8000 miles) was that it didn't matter, with the shocks feeling reasonably stiff they were OK. I would try an get them even both sides, using their method or using a torque wrench in some manner.

[ereyal]

My shop has worked on these shocks, but I've never had a situation where I had to resleeve them, which is perhaps what you need. I will say that when I restored my 1938, I was never able to achieve the test results given in the manual, and that appears to be the case also with the Roadster we are currently restoring. My experience with my own car (7-8000 miles) was that it didn't matter, with the shocks feeling reasonably stiff they were OK. I would try an get them even both sides, using their method or using a torque wrench in some manner.

Hi Henry,
first of all thanx for the help, i thought about maybe re-sleeveing them, i went to some workshop here and he suggested to re-coat the piston with Hard-chrome ,only thing he wants almost 300 buck (!?!) for ONE.
what do you think of that? should i just go and try to re-sleeve it somewhere else of i will have to use hard chrome there?

Best regards,
Eyal 

[Henry Magno]

Do you know how much clearance there is now? I have no experience with hard chrome and I'm not sure whether the process maintains even thickness over the whole piece the way electroless nickel does. So you have the issue of whether the bore or the piston are out of round to begin with, and will still be out of round after you plate. That is fairly expensive for the plating, but I've never priced it.

We have brake sleeving done at reasonable prices, like $ 60 per wheel cylinder. Whether shocks can be done as cheaply I don't know, since they are probably not set up to do odd sizes. You may want to look into shock rebuilders. There are a lot for British shocks. Apple Hydraulics says they do Mercedes shocks, but they don't say they resleeve. I've had some bad luck with them in the past, anyway.

If you think the shock is not really bad, you might try adding some washers over the valve spring to put more pressure on the valve. We just did this and I think we improved it.

[ereyal]

Hello all!
Well we've done some progress just wanted to keep u posted

finished today the central lubrication system.
works great.
front end nearly done

G'day

Eyal

[ereyal]

some process done, i got the gearbox overhauled and  i did find the oil-seal in 12mm height.
some pics for u guys
 

[ereyal]

After i dismounted the control-arm that connects between the gearbox and the chaises i need to find new rubber silent-blocks\rubber bushings for that.
the dimensions are ID 10mm OD 22mm h-20mm

does anyone have any idea where can i find some?
 

Cheers!

Eyal

[John Ellis]

I believe that the part number is 183 988 00 10 and it is available from Mercedes Benz, though quite expensive.  Automobilia Versand has a silent block that is 10mm ID x 24mm OD x 20mm H listed as part number 186 988 00 10 for about $17 US.  I don't have information about the sizes, so I am assuming that your measurements are accurate.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silentblock-Mercedes-170-220-180-300-/290684899428?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item43ae2b9064#ht_1407wt_1238

[ereyal]

Hi John and thanks for your comment,
Automobilia Versand do have the 10x22x20 silentblock but they want about 13 euros for piece (which is very expensive) and the thing is i just made a bug order from them about a week a go so the shipping costs just don't worth it as-well 
i'm looking for another place that i can get them.

Cheers
Eyal

[ereyal]

Well, another job done, we got the bake tubes done, sadly i converted the 6x4mm originals to 1/4 inch ones (6.35mm).
all done by myself of-course .

G'day
Eyal

[Henry Magno]

You did a nice job with the brake lines, but that looks like bare, uncoated or unplated stock. If so, now is the time to put something on them to protect them, or have them plated in zinc. For reference, it is possible to get coated 6 mm steel brake line (from Cohnen suppliers) or 6 mm copper/nickel line available from various places in the US, including Fedhill  http://www.fedhillusa.com, not sure about elsewhere. I just switched to the copper/nickel because it needs no coating, and it's easier to bend and flare. It also has the advantage over the coated steel in that the coating on the steel is easily damaged by the flaring tool.

[ereyal]

a bit more done  ,back axle is in place with new, fresh mounts . and all the rear-end brakes are done.

and another nice BEFORE pic 

[John Ellis]

I like the before and after pictures .... great job!

[Stoebel]

What a nice job man!

Where did you get all the shiny bolts? Where did you learn how to fix the oil system and brakes?

[Paavo]

Thanks for pictures.

Last picture. Can you take closer picture for me from red circle.
What for that piece of metal is? My is bad shape and I want made new.
Is it for tail pipe???