Updates on the 320

[icanfixit]

I got the engine running today. Video link below.

I took the fuel pump and carb apart today and then got a temporary fuel supply connected. The oil pressure came up and the temp was good for coolant. The water pump is leaking around the shaft. I will have to find a rebuild kit. For now the engine is running.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IAX6zf9DXQ

Chris

[CraigS]

If you have trouble finding a kit for the water pump, I can recommend this guy to rebuild it. If possible, he will improve upon the original design.

http://user.cavenet.com/tmac1/

[icanfixit]

I have a question about the throttle shaft that goes through the block. The gas pedal linkage is connected to a shaft that travels to the other side of the block and then uses linkages to get to the carb. The shaft through the block is stiff and is not moving freely. Is there any thing connected to the shaft inside the block?

Many things to sort out.
Chris

[Henry Magno]

No there shouldn't be.

[icanfixit]

I am trying to locate flex brake lines. The oil lines would also be nice to find. Is there a listing for the fittings used on the lines?

While spending some time with my dad today we discussed the car. I located the air cleaner in his garage. The pressure switch for the brake lights has gone missing. It has been 20 years. I am not sure what it looks like. Are they available?

Some items still to be sorted out are: Rear diff is leaking -seals??, steering, still looking...

I notices in a photo of another 320 that there is a knob on the dash with "Gas" on it. I have the knob in a box but have no idea what it should be connected to.

[John Ellis]

Attached is a photo of the central lube tubing and fittings that I have tagged with part descriptions.  The flex hose is available, but I don't know the lengths for your car.  Henry Magno can make them for you.  Likewise for the brake flex hoses.  From the photos you really do need to replace the brake flex hose

[icanfixit]

Thanks for the info. I intend to change all the flex lines. Getting the lengths measured is not a problem. A source was the main problem. I will see if Henry replies. If not I will try and message him about getting some made.

Chris

[ereyal]

Try finding a local workshop for pipes and flex-lines.
i did all my central lub lines here at a workshop, cam out better than the original.
just today i redone an original Mercedes-Benz flex-line that connects between that oil filter and the oil pressure gage, the original was made from rubber covered with cotton reinforcements and still had the old paper label that indicated it was fro 1938 (!), they replaced the line with Teflon covered with stailess steel fibers ,will last for another 50 years or so

[Henry Magno]

I can get the lube lines done. The hose is smooth black rubber. The best thing is to send all the lines. Don't lose or damage any compression fittings as the pre-war were a different thread pitch and not available as far as I know. They will stay on the hose anyway.

I can't do brake lines. Jim Friswold at Vintage MB parts may have them 503-639-1158. He should be in the vendor database if he is not. He has a lot of pre-war items, probably has 540 K hoses and the lengths may be the same. Brake and Equipment Warehouse makes hoses, but I'm not sure they have the fittings, which are a bit odd, with copper sealing washers built into the ends. I may be able to get these fittings from Cohline, but in the past I think they wouldn't supply brake hose fittings, just complete hoses. The problem is they also won't make custom hoses in small quantities.

[icanfixit]

It has been a good weekend for working on the car. I checked the clutch and it was not frozen in place. I drove the car in reverse out of the garage and then back inside up and onto the ramps for the lift. Quite an experience doing it without any brakes. I fixed the stiff throttle shaft going through the engine block. I used a iv feed from a gas can for fuel.

The water pump will have to be rebuilt with new seals. It leaks out the front shaft and there is play in the front bearing. The seal around the thermostat housing needs to be changed. Coolant is leaking up the bolts.

I took the gas tank out to clean it. The sending unit is shot. I think it has been that way a long time. Taking it apart showed the guts were in pieces. Now to find a replacement. The top has 187 stamped on it and the housing inside has 1239 stamped. The tank cleaned up pretty well.

I changed the fluid in the trans and then drained the rear diff. When I get a change I will check the paperwork I have to see how much oil is needed to refill the diff.

So many other little things done to move the project along.
Chris

[Charles Adamson]

The 220 from 1951 has a 187 prefix.

Charles

[icanfixit]

This is the sending unit. It looks like a VDO that is listed on ebay for a 300sl. I will look for info on a 220 unit to compare it.

Chris

[icanfixit]

I was going through the spare parts my dad had in various boxes. In one was a used fuel sending unit. In looks like it is a close match but is a later unit. The top is held on with rivets and the float is different. The one from the car had bolts and nuts holding the top on and the float was very old cork.

A test with a meter showed the unit was not working. Removing the top and testing showed corrosion to be the problem. The wiper arm and the copper wire around the rivet seemed to be the problem.

I am not sure if the resistance range is the same on this unit. It would be nice to know if anyone knows the correct range for the car. I may just have to connect it to the wiring and see if the gauge responds to sending unit.

Chris

[icanfixit]

Points, rotor and cap...

Looking to find these for the car.

Chris

[Henry Magno]

I think the points are the same as a 190 SL. If the cap is good, clean it up. You won't find a replacement easily. I'm not sure about the rotor, I'd have to look and compare, but again, if it's working I wouldn't worry about it.

[icanfixit]

The rotor needs to be changed. According to my dad he made a rotor from another car work, not well but the car runs. So I now look for the correct rotor. I have to remember that he was doing this in 1970 when part sources were scarce and information was limited. 

Chris

[icanfixit]

I got this info the Classic Center. They do not have any parts on hand.
Chris

 

Rotor 1422466

Points 1422467

[John Ellis]

I don't recognize the parts numbers .... the sequence is different than I would expect for both Mercedes & Bosch.  Your 320 should have a Bosch VE 6 BS 238 distributor.  Somehow I seem to recall that the point sets were the same as used in the 170V distributor (they share the VE nomenclature), and as Henry mentioned is the same as the Mercedes 190SL.  Attached is a picture of the 170V points ... do they look the same?  If so, I will send you a set for fit.

It is possible that the rotor is also common to the 170V, but obviously not the cap.

[CraigS]

I don't think this will help you with the points, but it may have some useful information nonetheless.

[icanfixit]

I came up with a temp solution to the sending unit. After trying to get the dash gauge to read it seems like there might be more than one problem. I found a mechanical gauge from Moeller. It came today and the bolt pattern matches. I will have to open the truck to check the gas level but it will work till I get the dash and sending unit working together.

I am waiting on brake rebuild kits. Somewhere in the mail is a slow package. Three wheel cyl. are dismantled and waiting for rebuild so far. The parking brake is free and working again.

All the lighting is fixed. So much more done just not the time to list it all. As soon as the brakes are finished I can get the car off the lift.

Chris